@article{oai:nagoya.repo.nii.ac.jp:00030855,
 author = {Iwata, Koichiro and Sawaragi, Toru},
 issue = {2},
 journal = {Memoirs of the Faculty of Engineering, Nagoya University},
 month = {Mar},
 note = {An elucidation of mechanics of wave breaking and wave deformation after breaking has been a matter of great interest to coastal engineers as well as researchers in the hydrodynamics field. This paper is intended to discuss the wave characteristics at the inception of wave breaking and the wave deformation in the surf zone up to the dry bed from theories and experiments. Waves treated in this paper are both the regular and irregular waves. The wave breaking conditions and breaker types, wave characteristics such as the wave height, wave profiles, etc., at the breaking point, internal mechanics of breaking waves, changes of wave heights and the mean water levels, and wave run-up heights are described. Main part of the paper discusses the regular wave deformation in the surf zone.},
 pages = {239--283},
 title = {Wave deformation in the surf zone},
 volume = {34},
 year = {1983}
}