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Wave deformation in the surf zone
https://doi.org/10.18999/memfenu.34.2.239
https://doi.org/10.18999/memfenu.34.2.23919e5c2d0-8acc-49e3-96ee-010fb1e1700a
名前 / ファイル | ライセンス | アクション |
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Item type | 紀要論文 / Departmental Bulletin Paper(1) | |||||
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公開日 | 2020-11-16 | |||||
タイトル | ||||||
タイトル | Wave deformation in the surf zone | |||||
言語 | en | |||||
著者 |
Iwata, Koichiro
× Iwata, Koichiro× Sawaragi, Toru |
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アクセス権 | ||||||
アクセス権 | open access | |||||
アクセス権URI | http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2 | |||||
抄録 | ||||||
内容記述 | An elucidation of mechanics of wave breaking and wave deformation after breaking has been a matter of great interest to coastal engineers as well as researchers in the hydrodynamics field. This paper is intended to discuss the wave characteristics at the inception of wave breaking and the wave deformation in the surf zone up to the dry bed from theories and experiments. Waves treated in this paper are both the regular and irregular waves. The wave breaking conditions and breaker types, wave characteristics such as the wave height, wave profiles, etc., at the breaking point, internal mechanics of breaking waves, changes of wave heights and the mean water levels, and wave run-up heights are described. Main part of the paper discusses the regular wave deformation in the surf zone. | |||||
言語 | en | |||||
内容記述タイプ | Abstract | |||||
出版者 | ||||||
言語 | en | |||||
出版者 | Faculty of Engineering, Nagoya University | |||||
言語 | ||||||
言語 | eng | |||||
資源タイプ | ||||||
資源 | http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501 | |||||
タイプ | departmental bulletin paper | |||||
出版タイプ | ||||||
出版タイプ | VoR | |||||
出版タイプResource | http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85 | |||||
ID登録 | ||||||
ID登録 | 10.18999/memfenu.34.2.239 | |||||
ID登録タイプ | JaLC | |||||
ISSN(print) | ||||||
収録物識別子タイプ | PISSN | |||||
収録物識別子 | 0027-7657 | |||||
書誌情報 |
en : Memoirs of the Faculty of Engineering, Nagoya University 巻 34, 号 2, p. 239-283, 発行日 1983-03-31 |
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著者版フラグ | ||||||
値 | publisher |